Electric Strikes and Access Control Basics

What a strike is, and what makes it electric

Every latch needs something to catch it. On the edge of a door, a latch bolt slides out into a hole in the frame, and the metal plate around that hole is called the strike. A normal strike is fixed. It simply gives the latch a place to rest. An electric strike has a small movable part inside that either holds the latch in place or lets it swing open, depending on whether it has been told to release.

When the strike is powered or signaled to release, the latch can pass through and the door opens when pushed or pulled. When it is not released, the latch stays caught and the door stays shut. The person standing outside does not turn a key. They present a credential to a reader, enter a code or are buzzed in by someone who can see them, and the strike does the rest.

The appeal is that an existing door can often gain electronic control without replacing the entire lock. The lockset stays on the door, and the electric strike changes how the frame responds. That makes it a common choice for offices, clinics, shops and apartment entries that want to control who comes in without rebuilding the whole entry.

The pieces of an access control setup

A working system has several parts. The credential is what a person presents: a card, a fob, a code or a phone based pass. The reader or keypad receives it. A controller makes the decision about whether this credential is allowed at this door at this time. A power supply feeds the strike, and wiring ties everything together. Many systems also include a request to exit device, such as a button or a motion sensor, so people can leave without trouble.

It helps to think of these as four questions. Who is asking to come in? Is that person allowed? What will the door do? And how will people leave? If you can answer each in a sentence, you have the outline of a system. If you cannot, slow down, since the product catalog will not answer them for you.

Different trades handle different parts. A locksmith typically handles the door hardware and strike. An electrician or a low voltage technician may handle power and wiring, and an access control company may handle readers, controllers and software. Our guide on alarm systems and locks shows how those lines often fall, which helps you ask the right person the right question.

Keep expectations realistic about timing and scope. Access control projects often reveal small problems that were hiding behind an old, forgiving lock: a door that never quite closed, a frame that was never square, a wire nobody could trace. Budget time and patience for those discoveries, and ask your locksmith to tell you what they find before moving on.

Fail safe or fail secure: the choice that matters most

Electric strikes come in two basic behaviors, and picking the wrong one is the most common mistake. A fail secure strike stays locked when power is lost. The door remains latched until power returns, though a person inside can usually still leave using the lockset's handle. A fail safe strike does the opposite: it releases when power is cut, so the door can be opened without a credential.

Which is correct depends on the door and the building. Many offices and shops want fail secure, because a power outage should not leave the building open overnight. Some doors that serve as required exits or stairwell doors may need a fail safe arrangement. The rules for which is allowed where vary by building type and by local code, so the person to ask is your local fire or building official.

Do not guess, and do not assume that one type is always better. Think through the scenario of a storm knocking power out for a long period, which is not unusual in Central Florida in hurricane season. What should the door do, and how will people enter and leave? Write the answer down before ordering any hardware.

• Fail secure strikes stay locked when power is lost.
• Fail safe strikes release when power is lost.
• Required exit doors may be subject to specific rules.
• Plan for a long outage, not just a flicker.

Readers, keypads and credentials compared

A card or fob reader is familiar from office buildings and gyms. Credentials can be added and removed from the system without changing the door, which is a major advantage over mechanical keys. When someone leaves, you disable their card instead of collecting a key. The downside is that cards can be lost, shared and sometimes copied, depending on the technology used.

A keypad uses a code that people memorize. There is nothing to lose, but codes get shared, written down and passed along. Some systems let each person have their own code, so activity can be tracked and individual codes can be removed. Other systems use one shared code, which is simpler but weaker, since you cannot tell who used it.

A buzzer or intercom lets someone inside release the door for a visitor. It suits front doors with receptionists or residents, but it depends on someone being there to answer. For more on this topic in a business setting, read keypad locks for businesses compared, and for a home setting, keypad deadbolts for busy households.

Think too about the people who will manage credentials after the installer leaves. Someone must add new cards, remove old ones and answer questions when a card stops working. If that duty falls on an office manager with many other jobs, choose a system whose daily tasks are simple. A powerful system that nobody on staff can operate tends to be left in a half configured state, and a half configured state is where gaps appear.

When an electric strike is the right tool

Electric strikes work well when you want to keep the existing lockset, when the frame can be modified for the strike, and when the door is mainly used by people with a credential. They are popular for doors that stay locked from outside during the day, with a reader controlling entry. They are also useful for doors where a person at a desk needs to let visitors in with a button.

They are less suitable when the door or frame is thin, damaged or poorly aligned. The strike has to line up precisely with the latch, and a door that has sagged will cause trouble. In some cases an electrified lockset or a different type of electric lock is a better fit. The right answer depends on the door material, the frame, how heavily it is used and what the building requires.

Glass doors and storefront doors have their own constraints because the frames are narrow metal. A strike for such a door must fit those frames, and the lock arrangement is different. See glass storefront door locks explained for more, and storefront lock planning for the wider picture.

Door condition comes first

Electronic access control does not fix a door that does not close properly. If the door drags, bounces or fails to latch, the electric strike will fail along with it. Before adding electronics, make sure the hinges are tight, the closer works and the door closes fully on its own. Many access control complaints trace back to the door and not the electronics.

A strike also needs a frame that can handle the cut. Wooden frames, hollow metal frames and aluminum storefront frames each need a different approach. The locksmith will check the frame, the width, and what is behind it. Sometimes the wall behind the frame has pipes, wiring or structure that limits what can be done. A visit to look at the actual door is worth the effort.

The earlier guides on when a door will not latch and how strike plates affect door security explain the basic physics. A door that latches smoothly every time is the foundation for any electronic upgrade, and a loose or worn strike area is worth fixing before anything electronic is added.

Plan the cable path too. Every extra door on a system adds wire runs, a place for moisture to enter and a point where an old cable can be damaged during later renovations. Marking where cables run and keeping a simple sketch with the system records helps the next technician, and it keeps another trade from drilling through a line by accident.

Power, wiring and the plan for outages

Electric strikes need power, usually low voltage from a dedicated supply. The supply may include a battery backup that keeps the door working for some time when mains power fails. Ask what the battery covers, how long it is expected to last under normal use and how you will know when it needs attention. Batteries wear out, and a backup that nobody checks is not much of a backup.

Wiring must run from the supply to the door. In an existing building, that can mean running wire through walls or ceilings, and that is work for the right trade. Weak or improvised wiring can fail, cause interference or create hazards. Let a qualified technician handle it, and ask who is responsible if something goes wrong later.

Also plan for a mechanical override. If the system fails, someone should be able to open the door with a key or another manual method, and the key should be controlled. Keep that key with someone responsible, and test the override from time to time. The idea of a backup is the same as in home systems, covered in when digital locks fail, keep a backup plan.

Weather and wear on Central Florida doors

Humidity, rain and heat can be hard on electronic hardware, especially on exterior doors. Moisture can reach a strike or a reader that is not designed for outdoor use. Salt and dust add to the wear. Ask whether the equipment you are considering is meant for exposed locations, and keep in mind that a sheltered entry will do better than a door that takes direct afternoon rain.

Doors swell in humid weather. A latch that lines up perfectly in dry months may bind against the strike after a rainy week. A strike with some tolerance can handle small changes, but a poorly aligned door cannot. For more on why doors change with the weather, read humidity and swollen doors.

After storms, check any electric hardware for signs of water, corrosion or loose wiring, and make sure the door still latches smoothly. If power was interrupted, confirm that the system came back properly. A short checklist in the aftermath of a storm, like the one in after a storm checking doors and locks, can catch problems before they matter.

Records, permissions and keeping the system honest

A system that controls doors also generates information: who entered, when, and through which door. Decide in advance who may see those records and how long they are kept. Staff are usually entitled to know that entries are logged, and clear communication prevents misunderstandings. Local rules about monitoring and privacy vary, so check with the appropriate advisor rather than assuming.

check permissions on a schedule. Over months, people change roles, projects end and cards that were issued for a temporary purpose remain active. A short monthly or quarterly check of the list, comparing it with a current staff roster, catches stale credentials before they become a problem. It takes little time and does more for security than almost any hardware upgrade.

Also keep a record of the physical system: where each strike is, which model it is, the date of installation, and any settings. When something needs service, that record saves time and avoids guesswork. Store it where more than one responsible person can find it. If your system includes keys as a backup, the discipline described in office key control basics still applies.

Residential and multi family uses

Electric strikes are not only for offices. Condominiums and apartment buildings use them on lobby doors, mail room doors and shared gates. Residents may have a fob or a code, and a buzzer system may let visitors in. In these settings, key control and credential control become a management job, because people move in and out frequently.

Managers need a plan for removing a credential when a resident leaves and for restoring service if the reader fails. They also need to think about emergency access and about who can change the system. The guide on condo entry and building access covers some of the same ground from the resident's view.

If you are a homeowner thinking of an electric strike on a gate or a side door, think carefully about weather and the backup plan. Many households find that a good keypad deadbolt or smart lock is simpler than a full strike and reader arrangement. The page on Bluetooth or Wi Fi smart locks compared offers a useful comparison.

What to prepare before calling a locksmith

Before you call, gather basic facts. What kind of door is it: wood, metal, glass or aluminum storefront? What lockset does it have now? Is the door an exit from the building? Who needs to enter, and when? Do you want to keep a mechanical key as a backup? Photos of the door, the frame and the area around the latch help a great deal.

Be ready to say who you are and what authority you have. The locksmith will check ownership or management authority before changing anything, which is normal and protects you. Orlando Locksmith explains the work and the price before starting, and tests the finished door with you, including how it behaves with a credential, without one and during a simulated power loss where that is practical.

Finally, be clear about which parts of the project the locksmith will handle and which belong to other trades. If an electrician or access control company is involved, ask who coordinates. Related pages include commercial locksmith and commercial and business locks.

Questions people ask