Entry Doors in New Construction: Hardware Planning

Why door hardware deserves an early conversation

A new home has dozens of decisions, and locks tend to land near the bottom of the list. Cabinets, flooring and paint feel more urgent. Yet the doors are framed early, the frames are set into the walls, and some choices, such as door thickness, swing direction and the locations of wiring for electronic locks, are much easier to make before the drywall goes up.

Making these decisions on paper costs nothing. Making them after the walls are closed can mean cutting into finished surfaces, patching and repainting. A short planning conversation with your builder or a locksmith can avoid a long list of small headaches.

This guide is general. Every project has its own contract, plans and local requirements, and your builder is the first person to ask about what is included. Treat what follows as a list of questions to bring to that conversation.

It also helps to remember that a new home is the one time you get to choose everything at once. Later, hardware is replaced piece by piece, and finishes drift apart. A deliberate plan now gives you a home whose locks match, whose keys are organized and whose weak spots were thought about before anyone moved in.

Start with a door schedule

List every exterior door and every interior door that will have a lock: front entry, back door, garage entry, side doors, patio and sliding doors, a primary bedroom, home office, bathrooms, nursery or guest rooms. For each, note the size, the swing, the material and the type of lock you expect.

This simple schedule reveals surprises. You may find that three exterior doors have different hardware finishes, or that a door you thought would be a solid slab is a hollow one. You may notice a door that swings into a hallway where a lever handle would hit a wall.

Share the schedule with your builder and ask for the specifications they plan to use. Comparing their list to yours is the simplest way to uncover mismatches. Keep a copy in your records, because it becomes valuable later when a lock fails or you need a replacement.

Think about use as well as looks. A door that will be used constantly, such as the one from the kitchen to the yard, needs hardware that can take daily wear. A guest room door that is rarely opened can be simpler. Assign quality where use is heaviest.

Take a moment to consider emergency exits as well. Every bedroom and main exit should be easy to open from inside without a key, which is a basic safety principle. Mark where you want deadbolts and where a simple latch is enough. Interior doors usually need privacy only, while exterior doors need proper security. Be clear about the difference before the order is placed.

• Count every door that needs a lock and note its swing direction.
• Record door thickness and material for each exterior door.
• Decide on a single finish family for visible hardware.
• Mark any door that will have an electronic or smart lock.
• Note any door that requires special rules, such as the one between the garage and the house.

Frames, jambs and the quiet parts

Builders usually install standard jambs with standard strike plates and short screws, because that is simple and conforms to common practice. You can ask for upgrades before the frames are closed up. Longer screws into the framing, reinforced jambs and box strikes are all easier to add at this stage than later.

Read the screw length and strike plate security guide and the frame reinforcement overview before the conversation, so you know what you are asking for. Many builders are happy to include these touches when asked.

Also consider door thickness. Standard exterior doors are a common thickness, and most locks are made for them. A thicker or thinner door may need special hardware, so mention it early if you have chosen a custom door.

Ask the builder to confirm which direction each door swings, and whether any exterior door opens outward. Outswing doors need hinge hardware suited to exposure, as explained in the hinge side basics guide. It is easier to specify the correct hinges at the outset.

Take photographs of the frames before drywall and trim hide them, with a tape measure in view. These pictures show what is behind the walls and are invaluable for future work.

Who has the keys during construction

During construction, many people have access: framers, electricians, plumbers, painters, inspectors and delivery crews. Builders usually use temporary construction locks or a lockbox so they do not hand permanent keys to dozens of people. Ask your builder how this works for your project.

The key point is that the permanent keys should not be in circulation until the work is finished. A builder may agree to rekey the home, or to install permanent locks, at the end. If not, you can plan a rekey on move in day so nobody from the build crew still holds a working key.

The construction site lock and key handover guide discusses the process from a site manager's viewpoint, and the move in lock changes page describes what the lock side of a handover involves.

Lockboxes on construction doors are common and generally handled by the builder. If you are the owner and building your own home, keep a written list of anyone who holds a code or key, and change codes between phases. That prevents lingering access from earlier trades.

When the home is almost finished, ask the builder to hand over every key, including those cut for the construction phase, and then rekey or replace the cylinders. Keep a record of the date.

Choosing the locks themselves

Think about how your household will use each door. A family with young children may value lever handles that are easy to operate and a privacy lock on the bathroom that can be released from outside in an emergency. A home with older members may want hardware easy on the hands. The knob, lever and handleset comparison compares styles.

For the front door, decide between a keyed deadbolt, a keypad or a smart lock. Each has strengths. The smart lock questions to ask first list helps you decide what works for you.

Remember that a builder's allowance for hardware is often for a basic lockset. If you want a higher grade, ask what the allowance covers and whether you can upgrade or supply your own.

Hardware sets are often sold in matching finishes, and a consistent look from door to door gives the home a finished appearance. Choose a finish with the humid climate in mind, and avoid mixing finishes that will age differently.

Ask about keying options. Having the front and back doors keyed alike, so one key does both, is a common request. A locksmith can arrange that at rekey time if the builder's hardware does not offer it.

A last consideration is whether you want master key capability for a large home with guest suites or a rental unit. Most homes do not need it, but if yours does, planning the key system with the hardware avoids a retrofit. The master key terms glossary explains the vocabulary.

Power, wiring and network for electronic entries

If you plan an electronic lock, a video doorbell or an access system, ask for wiring or conduit at the door while the walls are open. A low voltage line to the doorbell location and a spot for a signal extender can save trouble later. Wi Fi coverage at the front door matters for smart locks and cameras.

Think about where the keypad or reader will be mounted and how it relates to the door handle. A keypad placed too far from the handle is awkward to use. A signal blocked by metal framing or stucco can weaken wireless devices.

The video doorbell and locks guide describes how those devices relate, and the alarm and lock roles guide explains who handles which part.

Think about the tradeoff between the convenience of electronics and the simplicity of a plain key. A smart lock offers codes and remote features but depends on batteries and a signal. A keyed deadbolt offers none of that but has fewer ways to fail. Many households choose a mix, using a smart lock on the main entry and plain deadbolts elsewhere.

Whatever you choose, ensure that a physical backup key exists for any electronic lock. The backup plan guide explains why.

Garage entry, sliding doors and the other openings

In a new home, the door from the garage into the living area has special considerations that may be governed by local building rules. Requirements vary, so ask your builder or the local building authority what applies. Beyond that, plan for a deadbolt and a solid frame. See the garage entry door lock basics.

Sliding glass doors and patio doors are common in Florida homes, and their latches work differently. Ask what lock is included and whether a secondary lock or a bar can be added. The sliding glass door lock basics and patio door security guide help you think about the choices.

Do not forget windows and side doors. A secure front door beside an easily opened side entry leaves the home only as protected as its weakest opening.

For sliding doors, note whether the latch is a simple hook or a more robust multipoint system, and think about the track too. A bar or pin in the track adds a second layer that many owners appreciate.

Mailboxes, if they are part of the structure, also need attention. A locking mailbox at the entry protects letters and parcels, and its keys should be part of your handover list.

Florida weather and hardware choices

Central Florida is hot and humid, with strong afternoon storms and a hurricane season. Door hardware needs to handle heat, moisture and sometimes salt in the air. Finishes vary in how well they hold up, and thin plating can pit and peel within a couple of seasons. The lock finishes and humid air guide compares options.

Doors in storm prone regions may be built to handle wind pressure, and the hardware must fit the door's design. If you are buying a storm resistant door, ask which locks are compatible, since the wrong lock can affect the door's performance.

Electronic locks and batteries also feel the heat, so consider where devices will be mounted. The smart lock battery planning guide offers tips.

Ask the builder to describe how exterior doors were sealed and flashed. Water getting behind a frame leads to soft wood and loose hardware, which undermines everything else you have planned. A door is only as secure as the wood that holds it, and wood that stays wet does not hold for long.

After the first major storm in your new home, walk the doors again. New wood settles, and small adjustments may be needed.

Walk through before closing

Before you accept the home, walk every door. Open and close each one several times. Turn each lock with each key. Check that every door latches without lifting or pushing and that the gap around the edge looks even. Mark any issue on a punch list.

Count the keys you are given and ask what each opens. Ask whether any key can be copied freely or is restricted. Ask whether the locks have been rekeyed from the construction set. If you are unsure, plan a rekey or a lock change as soon as you take possession.

Photograph the locks, the labels and the packaging if available. Record brand and model numbers. This record becomes useful for repairs, insurance and future replacements.

Keep your punch list in writing and date each item. Include the lock brand and finish for each door next to the entry, so the list also works as a hardware record. Builders usually have a process for fixing issues within a defined period, and the details are in your contract. A written record helps both parties.

If a lock does not work smoothly on day one, say so. A lock that sticks in a new home is a sign of misaligned prep or a frame that needs adjustment, and it will not improve with age.

Working with Orlando Locksmith on a new home

Call and describe what you are building or buying: the number of doors, the lock types you are considering and your timeline in general terms. The team checks that you have authority over the property, explains the proposed work and the price before starting, and tests everything with you at the end.

Common requests include rekeying the whole home to a single key, installing deadbolts, fitting smart locks, matching sets of locks to a finish, and planning keys for a family. Describe what matters to your household and ask for the options.

If a question belongs to the builder, the electrician or the local building authority, you will be told plainly. Good planning uses the right expert for each part.

Bring your door schedule and photographs to the conversation. They give the technician a clear picture and speed up planning. If your plans are still taking shape, say so, and ask for options at different levels of detail.

A timeline you can follow from framing to move in

At framing, confirm door sizes, swing and frame upgrades, and request wiring where electronic devices are planned. This is the easiest moment for structural choices, because the walls are open and changes are simple.

At the finish stage, choose hardware, finishes and keying. Order locks early enough that they arrive before they are needed, and verify that the finish and handing, meaning left or right hand, match each door. The left and right door handing guide explains why handing matters.

Before closing, walk every door, count keys and confirm who has copies. Plan a rekey or a lock change for move in day if the construction keys were not collected.

After move in, give each household member the right key or code, make a spare, and store it safely. Keep your records in one place so that a future technician, or a future owner, can understand how the home was set up.

Questions people ask