Is Rekeying Enough After a Break In?

First, the question behind the question

When people ask whether rekeying is enough, they are really asking two things. Will the old keys stop working, and will the home be safe against the same kind of entry again? Rekeying answers the first question very well and says nothing at all about the second.

A rekey changes the internal arrangement of a lock cylinder so that the old keys no longer operate it and a new key does. The hardware stays in the door. That is exactly right if the worry is a lost, stolen or copied key. It is not enough if the way in was a kicked door, a splintered frame, a forced cylinder or an unlocked window.

So the useful first step is to work out how the person got in. If you are not sure, look at the evidence before you decide anything. Your answer shapes the whole plan, and it may also matter to the report you make and to your insurer.

Before you touch anything, remember the basics of safety. If you think someone may still be inside, leave and call 911. Our general walk through is in what to do after a break in, and this page assumes you are past that point and thinking about the locks.

Reading the evidence at the door

Stand outside and look at the door the way a stranger would. Is there a footprint or scuff near the lock edge? Is the frame cracked where the bolt enters it? Are the screws on the strike plate pulled loose, or is the wood around them splintered? Does the cylinder sit crooked, scratched or visibly damaged?

Then look from inside. A door that closes but does not align with the frame is a sign of force. A deadbolt that no longer slides smoothly may have been bent. A latch that sticks may have been hit. Taking photographs from several angles gives you a record for your report and for any work that follows.

Next, consider the signs of a keyed entry. If a door is intact, undamaged and simply unlocked, the person may have used a key, a code or a hidden spare. That points toward rekeying as a central response, along with a hard look at where copies might be. Our guide on how rekeying changes who can enter explains what a rekey does and does not change.

The evidence is not always at the front door.

• Scuffs or dents near the lock edge suggest a kick or a pry attempt.
• A cracked or split frame around the strike plate suggests the door was forced against the latch.
• A crooked or scarred cylinder suggests tampering with the lock itself.
• An intact, unmarked door that was found open suggests a key, a code or another entry point.

When rekeying is a sound answer on its own

Rekeying is a good fit when the door, the frame and the lock hardware are physically sound, and the likely weakness is a key. Examples include a stolen purse that held your house key, a missing spare from a hide a key spot, or a former tenant who never returned a copy. In those cases, the old keys are the problem, and removing their power is the fix.

It is also a cost conscious choice. Rekeying usually costs less than replacing hardware, and it lets you keep locks you already like. A locksmith can rekey several locks to one key at the same visit, which is practical if you are tired of carrying a ring with three keys. Read more at rekeying and compare it with lock replacement or rekeying.

If you choose a rekey, ask to have the work tested with you, including every door that was rekeyed. Try the new key several times in each lock, and make sure the old key is dead. Keep the old keys separate for a few days in case you need to demonstrate the difference, then dispose of them.

One more caution. A rekey does not alter the strength of a weak deadbolt. A short bolt, a thin strike plate and a loose cylinder still give a determined intruder the same opportunity as before.

When the hardware has been damaged

If the lock was forced, bent or broken, rekeying is not the right move. A cylinder with a damaged internal mechanism may not operate smoothly even with a new key, and the damage can hide weaknesses you cannot see. In that case replacement is the sensible route, and our page on lock replacement and repair describes the work.

The same is true of strike plates and the wood around them. A strike plate that has been ripped out leaves screws short and holes enlarged. Putting a new plate into old holes just recreates the weakness. A repair may involve filling the holes, moving to longer screws that reach the stud, or reinforcing the jamb, which our overview of reinforcing a door frame explains in general terms.

Door damage may need a carpenter rather than a locksmith. A locksmith can often tell you whether the door and frame are likely to hold a new lock, and can say honestly if the structure needs work from another trade. Do not accept a quote that treats a split jamb as a minor detail.

If your door is hollow, thin or already weak, consider whether the break in showed you something about the entry as a whole. A good lock on a poor door is like a strong padlock on a paper gate.

Doors, windows and the other ways in

A door that looks locked can still have been opened without force by other means, such as through an unlatched window or a sliding door. Not every break in uses a door. Sliding glass doors, ground floor windows, garage entries and side doors are common targets because they are less visible. If the intruder came through one of these, rekeying the front door would be a comforting gesture with little practical effect.

Walk the whole home with a clear head. Check every window latch, every door lock, every sliding track and every pet door. Our guides to sliding glass door lock basics and garage entry door lock basics go through the weak points that tend to be overlooked.

A pet door large enough for a person is another quiet risk, and so is a garage door left connected to an opener that was stolen. Not every one of these is a locksmith job, but a locksmith can help you think through the sequence of what to fix first.

If a vehicle was involved, such as a stolen car key from a hook inside the home, consider that too. Our article on locks and keys after a car break in covers the vehicle side.

Stolen keys, fobs and digital access

If the thief took keys from your home, think about every item that was on the ring. A house key, a car key, a mailbox key, a gate fob and a storage unit key all create separate risks. Rekeying the front door may deal with one of those and leave the others untouched.

If a car key or smart key was taken, the vehicle becomes part of the problem. Depending on the system, the lost key may need to be removed from the vehicle's memory, and a replacement may need to be programmed. Have the make, model, year and VIN ready when you call. Our page on car key programming and fobs covers what is usually involved.

For smart locks and keypads, change the codes and remove any users you no longer recognize. If a phone was stolen, sign out of the lock app on all devices and change the password for the account that controls it. A digital lock cannot be rekeyed in the usual sense, so access control is a matter of codes and accounts.

Also think about the paper trail. Mail, ID cards, vehicle papers, medical bills and delivery labels all carry addresses, and a thief who grabbed a wallet or a bag may now hold both your name and your location. A thief with your address and your key can return, and that is a strong reason to act on the keys first.

Records, reports and the order of the first few days

The days right after a break in are crowded with decisions, and it helps to know what order things tend to go in. Personal safety comes first. Then comes a report to the police, which creates an official record of what happened. Then comes a call to your insurer if you have a policy, since they may have their own steps for documenting damage and for approving repairs.

Photographs and notes are your friends. Take pictures of the door, the lock, the frame and any damage before anything is repaired, and keep a short list of what you saw and when. If a locksmith or carpenter does work, ask for a clear written description of what was done. These records are useful for insurance and for your own peace of mind later.

Do not hurry to throw away damaged parts if an officer or insurer has asked to see them. A bent cylinder or a split strike plate can be evidence of how the entry happened. Ask what they need before you clean up, while still making the home secure for the night.

If you cannot make the home secure at once, say so when you call a locksmith. Temporary measures, such as a securing plan for a door that will not latch, can be arranged while a full repair is planned. Our page on lock damaged after entry describes that situation from the point of view of someone standing at the door right now.

A decision path you can follow at the kitchen table

Use a simple sequence. First, was the door forced? If yes, plan for repair or replacement of the damaged parts and then talk about keys. If no, move to the second question: do you know how the person got in? If you do not, assume a key or code is involved and plan to rekey or change codes.

Third, is the existing hardware sturdy and of reasonable quality? If the lock is old, loose or poorly fitted, a rekey keeps those weaknesses. If the answer is mixed, you might rekey now and replace the weakest lock later when the budget allows. A locksmith can talk through the trade offs with you.

Fourth, what else needs to change? Check windows, sliding doors, garage entries, mailbox and gate. Fifth, who else had keys? Ask roommates, relatives and former tenants. If anyone cannot be accounted for, treat their key as possibly in the wrong hands. The guide on securing a home after a change in household can help here.

Finally, write down the plan in order and note the dates. Having a plan helps you resist the urge to buy the first product that looks reassuring.

What to expect when you call a locksmith

When you call, describe what happened and where. Say whether the door was forced, which locks are involved, and whether you have the keys you know about. A locksmith will check that you are the occupant or have authority over the property before doing rekeying or replacement, because changing locks for someone who does not have the right is harmful.

They should explain the work and the price before beginning, and the finished work should be tested with you. If a quote seems vague, ask for it to be clearer. We offer a short guide on how to tell a clear phone quote from a vague one that is useful here.

If your door has been damaged, ask what can be repaired in place and what must be replaced. If you rent, tell the locksmith so that they can guide you toward steps to take with the landlord first. Requirements about changing locks in rentals vary, so ask your landlord or property manager about the rules that apply to you.

Also mention any special circumstances, such as a restraining order, a recent separation or a worry about a specific person. Those details help a locksmith advise on both locks and the order of work, and they will treat them seriously.

Living with the result and staying consistent

After the work, spend a few minutes learning the new setup. Walk to every exterior door with the new key. Operate each lock from the inside. Confirm that spare keys work and are stored sensibly, using our notes on where to keep a spare key safely.

Think about habits as well as hardware. Lock the door when you are at home, close the garage door at night, and avoid advertising an empty house. A recent break in often leaves people anxious, and small routines help. Lighting, trimmed shrubs near windows and a clear view from the street all help without costing much.

If you feel unsafe, speak with the people around you and the authorities in your area. Locks are part of safety, not all of it. Reporting the break in also creates a record that helps with insurance questions, and a calm call to your insurer is usually worth making.

Over time, check your locks twice a year and keep your key inventory current. If you want a broader look at your home, our service on after a break in security describes the kind of work that follows an incident.

Give yourself permission to do this in stages. Many people try to fix everything in one afternoon and end up spending more than they need to or choosing hardware they do not understand. A sensible first stage secures the entry that was used and replaces or rekeys what a missing key could open. A second stage, a week or two later, can look at windows, lighting, the garage and the habits of the household. Splitting the work this way keeps the decisions calm and the costs under your control.

Questions people ask